My guides keep taking me to gift shops that all sell the same sort of stuff. "Department stores" is what some of them call themselves. But really, I can tell they are gift shops. I'm starting to suspect that the guides might get some sort of commission or kick back on sales from their referrals. (I can't think of any reason why they would take me to these places) With the exception of one shop, which deals in fairly high quality statues and antique statues and lamps, the proprietors of each and every shop have left me with a bad taste in my mouth. It's how pushy they seem. I'm not sure if it's an Indian thing, or a gift shop thing, or both. But they treat you as if you are absolutely going to buy something. As if you wouldn't have come to the store if you didn't want to buy something. It rubs me the wrong way. You see, like most guys, I go into a shop knowing exactly what I want to buy. If I don't see it, I'm not interested in half assed options or substitutes. The other thing is, I'm gaining sophistication as I gain experience. When a pushy salesman tells me over and over again that he's selling me "pure silk", "pure silk" that is obviously rayon it really pisses me of. It also makes me distrust everything else he says.
India is famous for textiles, and rightly so. I've already been to proper Saree shops and I can say the stuff they sell is phenomenal. But when a gift shop salesman trys to push poor quality crap sarees and other textiles on me for even higher prices than the saree shop, again, it pisses me off.
I'm only talking about 3 or 4 individual instances in the last 3 days. I can't go to more than one shop a night because it's just exaughsting. I'm not a big shopper. But I have been trying to pick up some things while I'm here. Even back home, shopping is hard for me. But in America, it seems like the problem is getting enough attention from a salesperson. (in addition to actually finding what I want) In India, the problem is getting TOO MUCH attention. (And still not being able to find what you want) The salesmen (so far, I have only ever had salesMEN) never just leave you alone to browse. Even if you ask them to leave you alone, they still hover. I've read about this but experiencing it first hand is a real eye opener. Add to that the issue of haggling for price. Many shops have no fixed price. That means all they have to do is take one look at me, size me up as an American and then jack the price 200%. Haggling is hard work. It wears me down even faster than a salesman who's too over-eager to find something to sell me. Who would have ever guessed that the first thing I'd really dis-like about India was...shopping.
As I said, I'm starting to build a little experience and sophistication in shopping. It's pretty easy to tell what's good and what's crap once you've seen both ends of the spectrum. It helps to shop in a few reputable shops before heading out in the uncharted territory In India, sometimes the best available is still crap, by western standards. But that is not likely to be the case in things you would be shopping for as a tourist.) I'm still working on the haggling thing myself. It doesn't come naturally to me. But I'm starting to get better at it... Sadly, I'm also almost done with my shopping. :-(
One thing that has really been driving me crazy is that I can't seem to find places to buy certain cloths that I commonly see the locals wearing. Neither my driver nor any of the guides I've had so far have been any help. Actually, it's this particular issue that has led me to distrust them. When you ask for a very specific thing. Even point to people wearing it one the street, and then they take you to a store that sells nothing similar, it starts to make you little more than suspicious. Of course, they could also just be clueless. I try to follow the rule of "Never chalk up to malice what can be explained by incompetence", but I am by nature a suspicious and hate being played as a sucker. At this point, incompetence or malice, I'm pretty much done with getting any shopping tips from guides
It's learn from my experience (i.e. mistakes) time!
Tips:
If you are not shopping at gift shops...shopping at "locals" shops at least a 10% discount is almost always possible, even on fixed price stuff. If you buy more than a single item be sure you ask for it.
Your travel guide book will have suggestions for good places to shop for particular items. Avoid the gift shops at the touristy places. Depending on what you want to buy, try to shop where the locals shop. Of course, if you WANT touristy stuff, it will be easy to find. See the following tips.
Even fixed prices usually don't really mean anything, especially in touristy areas. If you pay the price on the label you are getting screwed. Be ready to start bargaining. If you have no idea of the real value of the thing you are trying to buy, you are gonna get screwed. (I am speaking from experience so listen to me...) Try to take into account the local economy and what people really make per day. What is the lowest price you can possibly imagine? What is HALF that price? Some people in India make only two or four dollars a day. Many people make less than a dollar a day. This is common for people who have jobs you might normally consider a "good" job. Almost anything labor related is low paying. Even blue collar type work. Is the thing you would like to buy something a person who earns a dollar a day is capable of making? How long would it take them to make it? Don't forget that you are not helping that dollar a day person at all by getting screwed by the merchant selling the item. You are only enriching the merchant. (He and the dollar a day guys boss are the people exploiting the cheap labor) It never hurts to low-ball the seller. It sends the signal that you may not want to buy the item at all if the price is too high. (or that you are on to his game)
Of course, the BEST thing to do is buy stuff directly from the people who made it. That way, even if you get screwed on the price, at least it's going straight to the people who did the work. By "getting screwed" I mean, paying substantially more than they can usually get for the item... not nessesarily uncomfortably high from your perspective. Honestly, I would not mind so much being taken advantage of in this case. "Working Indians" are poor enough as it is. If you you feel the price is fair, there is no reason to haggle over the price too much. Maybe he'll be able to improve his life a little by getting a cell-phone or a motorcycle. Unfortunately, it's though to find the actual producers of most items and they usually don't have a huge selection. ( As I've mentioned before, in the case of a Saree it can take 10+ days to make a single piece... one family can't realistically make that many each year. Carvings, etc, can take similar or longer to create) Other craft items are frequently made in factory-like operations or procured though "cyotee" like middle men, and buying direct isn't possible.
About the photos:
On the way to Madurai, a farmer drying maize on the freeway. This is illegal but totally common. No one bothers to stop them from doing it. And what would be the point? They are some of the poorest people in the country. The farmers do the same with other crops. Micheal told me that they'll put rice out on the road to have traffic drive over it to help thresh it. Obviously, hitting rice straw and 60 km/h could be very dangerous (especially for a motor cycle) notice the logs around the corn.
Cleaning and bagging corn (taking up an entire lane of an undivided two lane highway)
I purchased half a kilo of cashews from this family and asked if I could take a picture of the grandparents and the kids.
An heirloom "farm chicken" I was able to get a picture of. Interestingly, every Indian I've spoken to so far knows the difference between an agri-business chicken (a "broiler") and a farm chicken. (which they call farm chicken) They all prefer the the taste of farm chicken. Interesting. Most Americans don't have any idea at all where their table chicken comes from.
Rain day:
I can't remeber the name of this place ... I'll look it up.
They still use old fashion locks all over South India.
Meenokshi Temple. Very commercial. It was like Grand Central Station inside with garish neon signs and shops. The feeling of this temple contributed greatly to my jaded mood.
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